notes from the boat
Greetings from further south as our intrepid explorers finally finished the
pina coladas, relinquished the hammocks and reluctantly left the luxury of
Barra de Navidad having suffered intolerable hardships and faced challenges
known to few.
Before leaving we had, of course, spent many afternoons developing our
aquatic skills. Gemma, in a moment of Absolut exuberance, waded into the
tepid water of the swimming pool, paused for a moment and then dived down
into the crystal depths... or to be honest, dived into the shallow end of
the pool disastrously grazing chin and shoulder on the textured slate
bottom. Not one of the greatest aquatic feats known to man and thankfully
performed under water so hopefully not witnessed by the lounging poolside
lizards. A score of zero.
Carl, on the other hand provided a nice display of skin as he lost his
shorts upon entry and was given a resounding round of applause accompanied
by cheers and scored a 9.5.
And so after ten days of roughing it, memories of good times had by all, we
headed south towards Zihuatanejo with several stops planned along the way.
Bahia de Santiago, Bahia de Maruata and Caleta de Campos all had the
pleasure of our company as we headed further and further south.
Our companions were sea turtles languidly bobbing in the bright sunlight,
enormous schools of dolphins herding fish and finally, humpback whales
A sleepless night was spent in Caleta de Campos as a school of dolphin spent
hours feeding below the boat. Winston's whines mingled with gasps for air as
the dolphins surfaced and fed all night. A few floating fish parts were all
that remained the following morning of the huge school previously seeking
shelter in the shadow of the boat.
Using an enormous telephoto lens as a substitute for binoculars has
disadvantages as we finally saw humpbacks fully breach. Unfortunately the
thought of pushing the button to take the photo vanished as in complete awe,
the behemoth leapt out of the water not once but twice. Finally an image of
half a humpback was captured but the moment will never be forgotten!
In contrast to the whales, the shameless turtles posed constantly for
picture after picture and finally we refused to photograph them any more!
Turtles are protected under Mexican law, the repercussions are horrendous.
We were more than slightly concerned when one of our models became entangled
with our fishing line. Panic was avoided however, as he lazily broke the
surface, moved his flipper an inch and the line was released. Minimal effort
though and soon he was back doing absolutely nothing!
Arriving in Zihuatanejo we found a delightful bay with thirty south-bound
boats anchored, jet skis zipping past, inflatable banana boats laden with
fun seekers and fishing pangas speeding by.
We arrived and spotted Claudia and Steve from Naiad, great friends we'd met
in the Sea of Cortez (when we were all suffering from heat exhaustion) and
having set the anchor, proceeded to do a little competitive margarita
And so, life continues slowly in Zihuatanejo. Palapa restaurants line the
beach, palm trees fringe the shore, thatched roofed hotels with terracotta
adobe walls cluster along the cliffs and Carl sleeps off a hangover.
We can certainly see why people get stuck here!
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