notes from the boat
It's been a week since we left Ensenada and a week since we walked on land!
We thought we'd time our departure from Ensenada to coincide with 15 knot
winds all the way down the Baja peninsula. We'd cruise down to Cabo San
Lucas in about four days. Perfect. Around into the Sea of Cortez and Bob's
your uncle. Or so we thought.
For the next week we had everything from absolutely no wind at all,
wallowing around in giant swell about a hundred miles offshore to 30+ knots
where we surfed to our top speed of 10.6 knots, the record to beat.
Days and nights blend into on and off watches. Our usual watch system
consists of three hours on and three hours off during the night, allowing
the other person to get some sleep. During the day we read, sleep if
necessary, eat, hoist the spinnaker, eat, watch for wildlife, eat more, take
down the spinnaker because the wind's changed, wait five minutes then raise
the spinnaker, start the engine because there's no wind, kill the engine
because the wind's picked up and then madly reef because the wind's hit 30
The night watch is a time for reflection, realizing how small we are in
this vast ocean, surrounded by the enormity of the sky, the multitude of
stars, matters of importance tend to take on a different perspective. The
main concern being we don't hit anything and no one (particularly an
enormous tanker) hits us.
We've been accompanied most days by dolphins swimming in the bow wave.
Standing above them on the bow it was possible to hear them communicate. We
also spotted the spout from a California Grey whale on her way back to
Great excitement the other day as Carl caught a large blue fin tuna. We're
not exactly sure how big it was and unfortunately we forgot to photograph it
before we ate it. A primitive moment firing up the barbeque, Carl cleaned
the fish and we tossed a couple of steaks on. Best guess was that it was
about 15lbs and we were still eating it several days later. It's an amazing
thing to catch a fish and within half an hour have cooked and eaten it.
Being a bit on the squeamish side though, food on the hook is a bit too real
and all eyes were averted while Carl did the honours with a winch handle.
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