notes from the boat
On September 26th, John and Barbara from Songline, Jim and Susie from Sparta
(whom we'd met in Puerto Escondido) and the intrepid crew of Indigo Moth
(some of whom were a little reluctant) set off early in the morning to go
Steinbeck Canyon is a lush crevice wedged into the steep walls of Sierra de
la Giganta, a rugged range of mountains which overlook Puerto Escondido.
Compared to the somewhat dry and dusty surroundings of Baja California,
Steinbeck Canyon is a well-hidden treasure and certainly worth discovering.
Massive boulders have tumbled down from above and create an obstacle course
of boulders, caves, pools and ledges.
Not long after setting out Barbara managed to impale herself on a tree and
ended up with a large gash on her forehead, blood pouring down the bridge of
her nose. Missing her eye luckily, she'd be looking fabulous for her
eighteenth wedding anniversary with John the next day!
Heading on up the trail, Carl stepped over a large, hairy tarantula missing
it by inches. Apparently not very poisonous but big enough that we really
didn't want to find out, we photographed it carefully and moved on. We were
off to a good start!
Climbing higher and higher we were pleasantly surprised to find fresh water
flowing from the recent rains, waterfalls pouring into fresh water pools. As
the sun rose overhead, the temperature of the day steadily increased, the
temptation was too great and we plunged into pool after pool. Endless fresh
water is something we've missed while we've been sailing. We're very water
conscious as we make every drop we use so the chance to have a fresh water
shower with an unlimited supply was something not to be missed. Pummelled
and massaged by the torrent of water pouring from above, it was fabulous.
Winston bounded over boulders, slipped down rocks, plunged into pools,
balanced on ledges, slithered down slopes and managed in the process to wear
his nails down to nothing. Down to the nerve, bloody paw prints marked the
rocks as we renamed him yet again, from Corduroy Trousers to Bloody Stump.
He didn't seem perturbed however as he merely cooled his heels in every
available pool and led the way back down the trail.
Finding a pool hollowed from rock, steps conveniently located down to the
water, waterfalls gushing in and no one else around, even a bathing suit
seemed formal. There's nothing quite like swimming naked in a fresh water
pool in paradise (but there's no point zooming in on the photo!). All too
soon, John's head appeared over a rock and it was time to don bathing suits,
eat lunch and then with a reluctant farewell glance at the perfect pool, we
descended back down the trail.
Winston was pleased to return to Indigo Moth and having cleaned his paws,
proceeded to fall asleep happily as we weighed anchor and headed off to
Puerto Balandra on the north end of Isla Carmen. It had been a fantastic
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