On September 26th, John and Barbara from Songline, Jim and Susie from Sparta (whom we'd met in Puerto Escondido) and the intrepid crew of Indigo Moth (some of whom were a little reluctant) set off early in the morning to go hiking.

Steinbeck Canyon is a lush crevice wedged into the steep walls of Sierra de la Giganta, a rugged range of mountains which overlook Puerto Escondido. Compared to the somewhat dry and dusty surroundings of Baja California, Steinbeck Canyon is a well-hidden treasure and certainly worth discovering. Massive boulders have tumbled down from above and create an obstacle course of boulders, caves, pools and ledges.

Not long after setting out Barbara managed to impale herself on a tree and ended up with a large gash on her forehead, blood pouring down the bridge of her nose. Missing her eye luckily, she'd be looking fabulous for her eighteenth wedding anniversary with John the next day!

Heading on up the trail, Carl stepped over a large, hairy tarantula missing it by inches. Apparently not very poisonous but big enough that we really didn't want to find out, we photographed it carefully and moved on. We were off to a good start!

Climbing higher and higher we were pleasantly surprised to find fresh water flowing from the recent rains, waterfalls pouring into fresh water pools. As the sun rose overhead, the temperature of the day steadily increased, the temptation was too great and we plunged into pool after pool. Endless fresh water is something we've missed while we've been sailing. We're very water conscious as we make every drop we use so the chance to have a fresh water shower with an unlimited supply was something not to be missed. Pummelled and massaged by the torrent of water pouring from above, it was fabulous.

Winston bounded over boulders, slipped down rocks, plunged into pools, balanced on ledges, slithered down slopes and managed in the process to wear his nails down to nothing. Down to the nerve, bloody paw prints marked the rocks as we renamed him yet again, from Corduroy Trousers to Bloody Stump. He didn't seem perturbed however as he merely cooled his heels in every available pool and led the way back down the trail.

Finding a pool hollowed from rock, steps conveniently located down to the water, waterfalls gushing in and no one else around, even a bathing suit seemed formal. There's nothing quite like swimming naked in a fresh water pool in paradise (but there's no point zooming in on the photo!). All too soon, John's head appeared over a rock and it was time to don bathing suits, eat lunch and then with a reluctant farewell glance at the perfect pool, we descended back down the trail.

Winston was pleased to return to Indigo Moth and having cleaned his paws, proceeded to fall asleep happily as we weighed anchor and headed off to Puerto Balandra on the north end of Isla Carmen. It had been a fantastic day.